![]() There’s always been a thread of cultural subversion, drugs and sex, making the biker jacket one of the most versatile articles of clothing, both literally and conceptually. ![]() The biker jacket no longer dominates the outlaw margins of the Macho but the androgynous core of High Fashion-forward. Both present a subversive pastiche of traditionally masculine tropes, transposed on the feminine frame. An androgynous Sessilee Lopez dons a Jean Paul Gaultier leather jacket and trilby in the style of Michael Jackson for his Spring/Summer 2013 collection, the Frankenstein-inspired mandarin collar and rose pattern emboss of Christopher Kane’s effort is worn with a matching pencil skirt. In 2013, the mantle of transgression transfers to the catwalk and women, or more specifically, femininity. From greasers to punk, Rivet Heads to BDSM, black leather remains at the heart of social and sexual rebellion. ![]() It’s a subcultural archetype popularised by film, appropriated by rock n roll and inextricably linked to counterculture throughout modern history. The biker jacket: once utility workwear for World War I bomber squadrons, then the signature of outlaw motorcycle gangs made up of ex-WWII servicemen, ripping, tearing and dotting their government-issue hides with insignia-bearing badges. Elements of Style charts youth style’s fundamentals, selected by key voices of now.In this column, Steph Kretowicz examines the role of the leather jacket today in the wake of an AllSaints homage to the biker.
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